The latest issue of Bon Appetit features a North Indian noodle dish called sunderkala, which is served at Naar, a 16-seat tasting menu restaurant located in the foothills of the Himalayas. Getting to Naar proved to be a challenge, as it required a significant amount of logistical planning, resilience, and luck.
My first attempt to visit Naar was in late 2023, shortly after chef Prateek Sadhu opened the restaurant. However, my flight from Hyderabad to Chandigarh, the closest major airport, was canceled due to a thick fog that is notorious for causing flight disruptions in North Indian cities during the winter months. I attempted the journey again in the fall, when the weather is more cooperative, and was able to make it to the restaurant after a three-hour drive through winding roads and misty mountains.
Naar is located at Amaya, a 25-acre boutique hotel designed by celebrated Mumbai-based architect Bijoy Jain. The hotel features 15 limestone cottages with ivy-draped patios and minimalist interiors inspired by Jain’s sustainability-driven ethos. Art and furniture from the hotel’s owner, Deepak Gupta’s, personal collection is scattered throughout the property.
Although it’s not necessary to stay at Amaya in order to dine at Naar, it is difficult to resist the hotel’s stunning horseshoe-shaped infinity pool, which overlooks the pine-clad hills and provides a peaceful retreat from the pollution and congestion of India’s metropolises. The light and air at Amaya are noticeably different than in other parts of India, with a silvery glow that dissolves into gold as the sun moves through the sky.
My dinner at Naar was one of the highlights of my year, featuring a 15-course menu that was expertly executed by Sadhu and his team. However, my meals at Amaya were equally memorable, including a delicious hotel breakfast rooted in local Himalayan flavors and a Mediterranean feast for lunch. Both Amaya and Naar serve meals that complement each other and tell different chapters of the Himalayan story.